Abstract
This paper deals with the prediction of wave kinematics in the nearshore and coastal zones, where bottom variations strongly affect wave propagation and characteristics. We consider shoaling and breaking wave conditions, through detailed LDV measurements of wave kinematics over the water column in a wave flume. This experimental data-base serves to evaluate and compare several numerical prediction methods, including Flat Bottom Theories (FBT), Sloping Bottom Methods (SBM) and Transfer Function Methods (TFM). It is shown that advanced TFM give the best predictions for wave kinematics, provided that the local free surface elevation signal is available. Particular SBM may also produce reliable prediction for the case of plane slope from a limited number of wave parameters, whereas FBT should not be used in the coastal zone as they are not able to model the shape nor the asymmetry of the velocity profiles.
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Pages (from-to) | 329-336 |
| Number of pages | 8 |
| Journal | Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference |
| Publication status | Published - 1 Dec 2004 |
| Externally published | Yes |
| Event | The Fourteenth International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference - ISOPE 2004 - Toulon, France Duration: 23 May 2004 → 28 May 2004 |
Keywords
- Breaking waves
- Shallow-water waves
- Shoaling waves
- Surf zone
- Transfer function
- Velocity profile
- Wave kinematics
- Wave theory