Kinematics of nonlinear waves over variable bathymetry. Part I: Numerical modelling, verification and validation

Fluid particle kinematics due to wave motion (i.e. orbital velocities and accelerations) at and beneath the free surface is involved in many coastal and ocean engineering applications, e.g. estimation of wave-induced forces on structures, sediment transport, etc. This work presents the formulations of these kinematics fields within a fully nonlinear potential flow (FNPF) approach. In this model, the velocity potential is approximated with a high-order polynomial expansion over the water column using an orthogonal basis of Chebyshev polynomials of the first kind. Using the same basis, original analytical expressions of the components of velocity and acceleration are derived in this work. The estimation of particle accelerations in the course of the simulation involves the time derivatives of the decomposition coefficients, which are computed with a high-order backward finite-difference scheme in time. The capability of the numerical model in computing the particle kinematics is first validated for regular nonlinear waves propagating over a flat bottom. The model is shown to be able to predict both the velocity and acceleration of highly nonlinear and nearly breaking waves with negligible error compared to the corresponding stream function wave solution. Then, for regular waves propagating over an uneven bottom (bar-type bottom profile), the simulated results are confronted with existing experimental data, and very good agreement is achieved up to the sixth-order harmonics for free surface elevation, velocity and acceleration.