Laboratory observations and numerical simulations of shoaling surface gravity waves

Francoise Becq, Michel Benoit, Philippe Forget

Research output: Contribution to conferencePaperpeer-review

Abstract

The present study aims at investigating some of the processes affecting shoaling waves in shallow water, with particular attention paid to the non-linear interactions between triplets of waves (triad interactions) and depth-induced breaking. Four monodimensional non-linear wave models (two phase-resolving and two phase-averaged spectral models) have been implemented and compared to laboratory experiments performed in a wave flume of the Laboratoire National d'Hydraulique (LNH). Tests were realized in breaking and non-breaking wave conditions. The non-linear mechanisms associated with the models are found to satisfactorily reproduce, both qualitatively and quantitatively, the wave spectra evolution along the bathymetric profile. The non-linear coupling effects are characterized by strong energy transfers between the interacting components of the wave field, and for some test-cases, by an important decay of wave energy.

Original languageEnglish
Pages167-176
Number of pages10
Publication statusPublished - 1 Dec 1997
Externally publishedYes
EventProceedings of the 1997 Coastal Dynamics Conference - Plymouth, UK
Duration: 1 Jun 19971 Jun 1997

Conference

ConferenceProceedings of the 1997 Coastal Dynamics Conference
CityPlymouth, UK
Period1/06/971/06/97

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