TY - JOUR
T1 - Modelling of depth-induced wave breaking in a fully nonlinear free-surface potential flow model
AU - Papoutsellis, Christos E.
AU - Yates, Marissa L.
AU - Simon, Bruno
AU - Benoit, Michel
N1 - Publisher Copyright:
© 2019 Elsevier B.V.
PY - 2019/12/1
Y1 - 2019/12/1
N2 - Two methods to treat wave breaking in the framework of the Hamiltonian formulation of free-surface potential flow are presented, tested, and validated. The first is an extension of Kennedy et al. (2000)’s eddy-viscosity approach originally developed for Boussinesq-type wave models. In this approach, an extra term, constructed to conserve the horizontal momentum for waves propagating over a flat bottom, is added in the dynamic free-surface condition. In the second method, a pressure distribution is introduced at the free surface that dissipates wave energy by analogy to a hydraulic jump (Guignard and Grilli, 2001). The modified Hamiltonian systems are implemented using the Hamiltonian Coupled-Mode Theory, in which the velocity potential is represented by a rapidly convergent vertical series expansion. Wave energy dissipation and conservation of horizontal momentum are verified numerically. Comparisons with experimental measurements are presented for the propagation of a breaking dispersive shock wave following a dam break, and then incident regular waves breaking on a mildly sloping beach and over a submerged bar.
AB - Two methods to treat wave breaking in the framework of the Hamiltonian formulation of free-surface potential flow are presented, tested, and validated. The first is an extension of Kennedy et al. (2000)’s eddy-viscosity approach originally developed for Boussinesq-type wave models. In this approach, an extra term, constructed to conserve the horizontal momentum for waves propagating over a flat bottom, is added in the dynamic free-surface condition. In the second method, a pressure distribution is introduced at the free surface that dissipates wave energy by analogy to a hydraulic jump (Guignard and Grilli, 2001). The modified Hamiltonian systems are implemented using the Hamiltonian Coupled-Mode Theory, in which the velocity potential is represented by a rapidly convergent vertical series expansion. Wave energy dissipation and conservation of horizontal momentum are verified numerically. Comparisons with experimental measurements are presented for the propagation of a breaking dispersive shock wave following a dam break, and then incident regular waves breaking on a mildly sloping beach and over a submerged bar.
KW - Eddy-viscosity
KW - Fully nonlinear water waves
KW - Hamiltonian formulation of water waves
KW - Wave breaking
UR - https://www.scopus.com/pages/publications/85073566592
U2 - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.103579
DO - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.103579
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85073566592
SN - 0378-3839
VL - 154
JO - Coastal Engineering
JF - Coastal Engineering
M1 - 103579
ER -