TY - GEN
T1 - NEAR-BOTTOM KINEMATICS of SHOALING and BREAKING WAVES
T2 - 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2002
AU - Benoit, Michel
AU - Luck, Marilyne
AU - Chevalier, Christophe
AU - Belorgey, Michel
N1 - Publisher Copyright:
© 2003 World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd.
PY - 2003/1/1
Y1 - 2003/1/1
N2 - In order to predict the near-bottom kinematics under shoaling and breaking waves, five possible numerical modeling strategies are reviewed and applied to two test-cases performed under regular waves in a wave flume. These tests correspond to spilling and plunging breakers over a plane and smooth slope of 1:20. By comparing the numerical predictions with LDA velocity measurements close to the bottom, it is found that the Modified Transfer Function Method gives good estimations for the horizontal velocity, but it must be emphasized that this approach requires the knowledge of the free-surface signal on input. If only offshore wave conditions are known, best results are obtained from Nonlinear Deterministic Models, in particular from die extended Boussinesq equations. In the breaking zone, however, the agreement with measurement is better for the spilling breaker case; the treatment of plunging breaker needs to be improved in the numerical model.
AB - In order to predict the near-bottom kinematics under shoaling and breaking waves, five possible numerical modeling strategies are reviewed and applied to two test-cases performed under regular waves in a wave flume. These tests correspond to spilling and plunging breakers over a plane and smooth slope of 1:20. By comparing the numerical predictions with LDA velocity measurements close to the bottom, it is found that the Modified Transfer Function Method gives good estimations for the horizontal velocity, but it must be emphasized that this approach requires the knowledge of the free-surface signal on input. If only offshore wave conditions are known, best results are obtained from Nonlinear Deterministic Models, in particular from die extended Boussinesq equations. In the breaking zone, however, the agreement with measurement is better for the spilling breaker case; the treatment of plunging breaker needs to be improved in the numerical model.
UR - https://www.scopus.com/pages/publications/84950149446
U2 - 10.1142/9789812791306_0027
DO - 10.1142/9789812791306_0027
M3 - Conference contribution
AN - SCOPUS:84950149446
T3 - Proceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference
SP - 306
EP - 318
BT - Proceedings of the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2002
A2 - Smith, Jane McKee
PB - American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)
Y2 - 7 July 2002 through 12 July 2002
ER -