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Wave overtopping of rock-armored breakwaters in bimodal long-crested sea state conditions

  • Antoine Villefer
  • , Damien Violeau
  • , Maria João Teles
  • , Christopher Luneau
  • , Michel Benoit
  • Lamsid/EDF/R and D
  • Institut Polytechnique de Paris
  • OSU Institut Pytheás

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

Abstract

The mean wave overtopping rate is an essential parameter to design coastal protections. Estimating it with a high precision is primordial to find a balance between a satisfactory safety level and a limited impact on the environment and construction costs. A series of laboratory experiments was conducted in a wave flume to estimate the wave overtopping discharge over a rock-armored breakwater in bimodal sea state conditions (combining swell and wind waves). Both simulated swell and wind wave systems were long-crested and colinear. Preliminary tests were performed on a smooth breakwater to validate the experimental set-up. Some trends in the results with the smooth slope can be characterized by the representative wave steepness. These trends are confirmed and amplified in the presence of the armor rubble slope. In that case, the measured wave overtopping rate can be significantly overestimated by existing prediction formulas, especially for sea state conditions with a high representative wave steepness, corresponding to a high wind-wave proportion in the sea state energy. We suggest two methods to take into account the effect of sea-state bimodality via the representative wave steepness to improve the wave overtopping rate estimations for smooth and armored rubble breakwaters.

Original languageEnglish
JournalCoastal Engineering Journal
DOIs
Publication statusAccepted/In press - 1 Jan 2026

Keywords

  • Coastal engineering
  • bimodal sea state
  • breakwater
  • coastal protections
  • wave overtopping
  • wave tank

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